In the days leading up to the grand departure Ellie and I have been paying our respects to the National Park. Visiting places with trees (there are just a few), lakes, mountains, glaciers did I mention the trees? We have been briefed on the wildlife and I’ve been persuaded to purchase bear spray – personally I was more in favour of negotiating my way out of a tight spot rather than resorting to really pissing off the bear. Anyway the most exciting observation to report is the Train! Frequently these leviathans rubble past our cabin announced by a distressed wail of the horn – seriously if you want to give kids nightmares this will do the trick (I’ve got a video if your interested).